top of page

Germany - Unveiling Our True Thoughts and More: Two Weeks of Adventure in Bavaria

  • karenconnolly59
  • Jul 18
  • 26 min read


"The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page"

Sitting together enjoying the view up Mount Zugspitze
Togetherness up Mount Zugspitze

Our travels in the past have taken us from the UK to tour 10 countries in 21 days so for this tour we wanted to focus on one country in particular, Germany 🇩🇪.


Germany is often a country we travel through to get somewhere else but it has a charm and beauty in its own right that should not be ignored and so this June we focussed on the southern part namely Bavaria the largest Federal State in Germany.


Planning for our trip is pretty straight forward as we have been to Europe a few times now but if this is your first time there are a few things you need to be aware of and so should read our post  here that describes how to plan to get the best of your trip to Europe.


Our tour included travelling in our Ineos Grenadier 4x4, sleeping in the car and either wild camping or using campsites along the way. The only two fixed points in our trip are the ferry crossing into France and the return journey with everything in between being flexible. If you are taking your house on wheels or plan to stay in Airbnb's our 15 day itinerary is a good place to start.


It sounds daft but Germany is huge and so how much you can cover in 2 weeks driving from the UK is limited and with all the travel sites telling you the 'must dos' we can guarantee you won't be able to see them all in 2 weeks. Our advice is take your time, enjoy the journey and where possible limit your time on the autobahns. Driving from place to place is part of your tour but the trick is not feeling like you have to get to a certain instagram worthy place and miss the other often unmentioned places along the way.


So here we go Germany - Unveiling Our True Thoughts and More: Two Weeks of Adventure in Bavaria

This is a blog where we share with you our honest opinions of the places we visited and if we think it's worth a visit or not and possible places you could visit if you have more time.


Day 1 Leaving the UK to take the Ferry to Dunkirk


We chose to travel to Dover to take the ferry to Dunkirk namely because this was the cheapest way to cross the channel. Leaving Cheshire at 4am we made our way south to catch the 10am ferry. The beauty with the ferry is that if you arrive 4 hours either side of the departure time you can still travel on your ticket.

Michael having a bit of fresh air before we board the ferry
Take 5 before we board the DFDS Ferry

We chose to travel to Dunkirk as we love Bruges in Belgium and stop off here for a few hours before we find our bnb also in Belgium. We always stay the first night in an Airbnb so we can have a good nights sleep before we carry on our onward journey on Day 2. We sleep really well in our Grenadier but finding a camping spot, making the bed and sorting out the bags after being up since 2am is not the best for us, we want a bit of pampering 😀

The gateway we walk through from the car park into Bruges
Gateway to the City
A walkway next to the arched bridge over the canal on your way into Bruges
Bridge over the Canal in Bruges

The drive to Bruge is only an hour from Dunkirk where we have a favourite free parking spot on the outskirts of the town and walk in to our favourite city. The attractions here mean you could spend a few days easily but as a simple stop off we head straight to Otto Waffle Attelier and buy the best vegan waffles ever! We get them loaded with caramel sauce, nuts vanilla ice cream strawberries and blueberries. A sublime taste sensation!

Vegan waffle with vanilla ice cream, caramel sauce, fresh fruit and nuts
Vegan Waffles Yum 😋
The only place to get vegan waffles from Bruges Otto Waffle
The one and only OTTO Waffle Atelier
Michael standing outside Otto Waffle on a canal bridge
You know you've arrived when you get here!

If you are visiting Bruges for the first time then definitely book a walking tour as these are usually fun and very informative. We can still remember some of the facts we were told the first time we visited.

Church spires everywhere in Bruge
Bruges Cathedral
There are many streets which look like this in Bruges
Classic Bruges Architecture

We have stayed in a few different bnb's in Belgium all of which have been excellent. This time we stayed in The Bee Garden in Lege and it was superb. It cost us £72.46 through Airbnb but you can book directly through their website www.thebeegarden.be

If you want to see our walk through video you can always check out our instagram account on @2ontourexplore



Day 2 Leaving Lede and visiting Namur Citadel.


Namur Citadel is still in Belgium but worth a visit to explore the old town of Namur or the Citadel (Fortress) high on the hill at the site of the confluence of the Sambre and Meuse rivers. There are a series of tunnels below the citadel which can be explored or you can sit at the top and enjoy an alfresco lunch watching the cable cars arrive to drop off visitors. Napoleon called this the Termite of Europe due to the tunnels but it dates back to the roman era. Each successive ruler from the Holy Roman Empire to the french and then the dutch extended the township. It was only when Belgium gained independence in 1830 that it became the residence of King Leopold I. The last soldiers left in 1977 after which it became a tourist attraction and can be reached today by car, cable car or tourist train. www.citadelle.namur.be

Great reflection of the archway in the Grenadier bonnet
The Archway to Namur Citadel
Overlooking the River Sambre
Looking Out From Namur Citadel
Two Rivers coming together below Namur Citadel
The River Meuse from Namur Citadel
Having lunch watching the cable cars arrive up to the Namur Citadel
Cable Cars up to Namur Citadel
The roads to the top of the citadel are winding and take you high above the river
Roads leading to Namur Citadel

Our journey took us through Luxumboug into Germany where we found a great park up for the night on Park4Night [(Germany 54332) Wasserliesch]. This was above the Moselle River through a village with nice hiking trails and an orchid path. There are no facilities here and it is mainly used by dog walkers but there is a picnic table and rubbish bin and provided you leave no trace everyone is happy.

Parked up in a spot used by dog walkers and hikers
Park Up for the Night
Beer and nibble perfect combination
Chill Time
Great little sculpture of a pair of hiking boots along the hiking trail
Hiking Route
Slightly chilled wine from our cool bag plus crisps - perfect
Wine and Nibbles
Stir fry veg and rice for tea tonight
Teatime
Feels like camping when you eat off plastic plates but draw the line at plastic cutlery
Stir Fry and Rice
First night and bed all ready for later
Bed ready

Day 3 Drive to Rhineland Palatinate


Today was mainly about continuing our transfer to Bavaria. The plan was to drive to find a campsite and the explore on Day 4 particularly the Rhine Gorge.


Finding a campsite in this area was not as easy as we thought. It wasn't that there were no campsites it was more about the quality of the site. We wanted a shower now otherwise we would have freedom camped but the 30 degree heat was limiting our days without facilities!


Some campsites were like battery chickens and that for us was a big NO. Time was getting on and we found a campsite called Camping Moosaibtal. This was 23 euros per night and after we were given a spot at the farthest point near to the river we opted to stay 2 nights.

There were a lot of permanent residences on the site and we found out this was also school holidays however, it was clean and the site owner was very friendly and helpful. I think had we been closer to reception we would not have enjoyed this site as much so if you do stay here try and ask for the lower field.

Very peaceful just the sound of the birds
Perfect Spot in the Shade

Day 4 Bingen and Mainz


Today was the day to drive along the Rhine Gorge also called the Romantic Rhine which started further north at Bingen. We did stop at Bingen but to be honest it didnt wow us and so after a quick walk around we left to make our way to Mainz then down the Gorge. This was one of those days that ended with frustration as Mainz was like London on steroids. We couldn't park anywhere and there were so many road closures and road works we gave up in the end. This was one of those days we decided to return to the campsite and chill. It is days like this that the journey does not feel like part of the tour!

The old mixed with the new and the new wasn't great tbh
Walking into Bingen
Love the sculptures on roundabouts when you are abroad
Roundabout Art
Vineyards everywhere
Rhineland it is!

However, if you are taking this trip then our advice would be to start about 40Km south of Mainz to pick up the gorge and travel through this UNESCO World heritage Site. There are an abundance of medieval castles and the steep walls of the gorge are covered in vineyards. There is so much to do here including a cruise down the Rhine, hiking trails, sightseeing the castles or even wine tasting. We will add this to our must do's as we will definitely be back.


Day 5 The Black Forest


Today felt like the start of our real insight into Germany's charm and beauty. Don't get me wrong we had travelled through beautiful countryside but we felt we had missed out on what Germany had to offer mainly because we didn't get to where we wanted yesterday and also travelling a lot on the autobahn.

The lovely town of Seebach
Seebach
Love what people are doing to our old telephone boxes. Love the ones which are book swaps too.
Love the UK Telephone Box - Great Use

We drove through Seebach a gorgeous little town with its quirky telephone boxes, the forests and arrived in the hills to the Allerheiligen Waterfall carpark. It was a great drive up through winding roads with gorgeous views but as it was getting late to climb the waterfall and set up camp we thought we would start our walk early tomorrow.


Great drive through the Black Forest winding roads up hill and down
Love a winding road...

We thought we would freedom camp in the car park which was busy when we stopped and there were a couple of campervans. However, as it got late the car park completely emptied leaving just us with no mobile signal and feeling a little vulnerable just on our own we decided to move on where there was at least a signal. We don't mind being off grid but would prefer it when there are others nearby just in case...


Great car park for over night parking but we were on our own so we moved on.
Thought we were on to a winner for park up.

We decided to continue into Oppenau a picturesque village and camped in a campsite at Bad Petersal. We booked 2 nights as we definitely wanted to go back up to the waterfall so we paid 18 euro/night plus showers and pitched up. Our evening meal was under the stars as it got so late.

Finally found our park up for the night in Bad Petersal
Great campsite at Bad Petersal
Finally got our burgers even though it was dark!
Its a late one but burgers taste great in the dark

Day 6 Allerheiligen Waterfall


Beautiful morning to enjoy a fresh cafetière of coffee
Perfect coffee, Perfect backdrop

After we started our day with coffee we set off back again to Allerheiligan and found this great roadside vending machine full of fruit, cheese, eggs and meat. Fab idea and top quality.

Vending machine selling fruit, meats, eggs and cheese
Roadside Vending Machine
The fresh fruit was in tip top condition
Fresh Strawberries and Cherries

Today the car park was full to bursting and so we parked on the grass verge with others and began to climb up the Allerheiligen Waterfall.


We're getting good at this off roading 😂
Off Roading in our Grenadier 🤣

There were 240 steps up to the top plus the path inclines to see the cascading Lierbach Stream cascading down 7 levels a total of 83m

A beautiful entrance to the Allerheiligan Waterfall
Entrance to the Allerheiligan Waterfall
The stairs going up the waterfall
The stairs begin all 240 of them
Sign post at the waterfall
Way to go
The waterfall cascading over the rocks
Cascading waterfall

After you reach the top tier the path continues until you reach a collection of buildings one of which are the ruins of the All Saints Abbey together with a museum and a couple of cafe/restaurants. The Abbey was originally a monastery founded in 1191 to 1196 and became a site for pilgrims in the 13th century. Over the next few hundred yeard it was enlarged until it became an Abbey in 1657. The Abbey was blighted by fires and lightening and so the monks left in 1803 with it being planned for demolishen in 1816. The ruins of the Abbey provided a backdrop and used to 'own' the waterfall as part of the monastery. The waterfalls remained hidden until the early 19th Century when they were discovered with the aid of ladders. The German Forestery Commission installed the steps, paths and bridges in 1840 and due to the volume of visitors they need regularly renovating.

The ruins of All Saints Abbey
All Saints Abbey
One of the rooms in the All Saints Abbey showing old containers
All Saints Abbey
This cenotaph ws built to remember the soldiers in WWI
Cenotaph

In the heat of the day you can be refreshed by a cold beer or german wine and food. This was a great walk and very popular at the weekend but you still felt you could take your time, enjoy the views or even picnic by the river.

Great spot bu the river to have a picnic
Stopping to enjoy the view at River Lierbach
Contemplating on the bridge at the Allerheiligan Waterfalls
Its nice to look back to see where you walked from

After the walk we drove back down the mountain to Oppenau and sat enjoying beer and ice cream watching the world go by for a couple of hours. Sometimes its the simple pleasures which are the best.

Erdinger goes down very well in the midday sun
Two Beers Please
What better way to get your ice cream than to arrive on your tractor
Tractor Transport
All vegan mango and strawberry - delicious
Vegan mango and strawberry in a sugar cup
Town centre fountain just adds to the atmosphere
Would anyone mind if I dip my feet in to keep cool 😂
The flowers all along the riverside are beautiful
The river side flowers are gorgeous
At a road junction drinking beer and eating ice cream watching the world go by.
Where better to watch the world go by...
The views down the river are gorgeous seeing the flowers and the church in the distance.
Such a pretty view down the river into town

Day 7 Lake Constance, Meersburg and Lindau


Lake Constance or Bodensee (german) is huge and borders the three countries of Germany, Austria and Switzerland. There are numerous villages and towns along the shoreline each with their own charm. We had seen Lindau was a place to go so that was our plan however, we saw that Meersburg from a post on instagram from the German Tourist Board was one of the prettiest towns to visit so we thought we would start there.



The new castle greets you as you park near the harbour leading in to Meersburrg
The Neues Schloss (New Castle)
What a view across the vineyard to the harbour and we even heard people singing from inside the rooms
The Vineyard overlooking the harbour

We approached the lake along the north shore arriving at Meersburg first. As we parked up near the lake we could hear singing from the nearby college and the medieval buildings were gorgeous. This place had not previously been on our wish list but we would highly recommend it even though it appears to be a tourist hotspot and has over 1 million visitors per year. There were lots of street cafes and in general people enjoying the good weather food and drink. Some of the streets were steep to walk up but worth it to see the buildings all huddled together. There is plenty to see with the old medieval castle (possibly dating back to the 7th Century) and the 'new' palace of the Prince-Bishops built in the 1700's. The Prince Bishop at the time is a combination of a religious and worldly leader and held a special place in the Holy Roman Empire. Meersburg became the property of the Bishops of Konstanz in the 13th Century. A small town was developed which meant they could then hold a market. In the Napoleonic era the Prince Bishops were removed and the town became part of Baden. This loss of power had a distasterous impact on the economy and didnt recover until tourism took over in the 19th century especially with the introduction of the ferry service.


The vineyards were originally owned by the Prince Bishops of Konstanz but then became owned by the state of Baden-Wurttenberg. There are some private vineyards too where Schnapps is made and there are a couple of annual festivals purely to do with wine making.

The is a museum totally dedicated to the history of viticulture located in the upper town which we didnt get time to visit.

After walking past the cafes and tourist shops you reach this arch way into the old town
A walk along the harbour amongst the cafes and souvenir shops
Vegan ice cream x 2 please. just what we needed a (again!)
What more ice cream?
As you walk up the steep hill from the harbour you find the old town with lots of charming buildings
Half timber building in Meersburg
Stunning Gastof Baren with the clock tower behind
The Old Town Buildings
Great to see the Rathaus or Town Hall in Meersburg
Meersburg Town Hall
Everything is immaculate and there are floral arrangements everywhere
Floral decorations all around the town

Further around the lake we visited Lindau a medieval harbour town situated on an island in Lake Constance. We didn't really feel the charm that is boasted about on the internet but it still has its fair share of medieval buildings and history and lovely gardens. We walked around the harbour to see the famous light house and lion guarding the entrance and saw the Old Town Hall building and train station. If you have limited time we would recommend spending longer at Meersburg and skipping Lindau altogether.

A bronze cast of the town of Lindau seen as you cross the bridge to the islandd
Lindau in bronze
Beautiful gardens as you walk though the park to Lindau Island. Each one with aa slightly different theme
Lindau Gardens
beautiful planting in Lindau Gardens
Different corner different colour
The iconic harbour entrance with
Lindau Harbour Entrance
Not a Union Jack flag in sight
Flags flying high - not a Union Jack in sight
You can climb this lighthouse for a better view of the harbour.
Lighthouse at the harbour mouth in Lindau
The original Lindau town Hall
Lindau Town Hall
A building with lots of character and you wish the walls could talk.
The Train Station Building
Loved the fountain sparking through the banana plants
Bade Farewell to Lindau

Our park up for the night was in the hills above the town of Lindau in a parking spot for hikers (Park4Night 88131). For most of the night there was just us but after dark we were joined by one other campervan. There were again nearby walks you could do but no facilities so you really need to be self sufficient and leave no trace.

Our Ineos Grenadier nicely levelled ready for our night park up
Doesn't he look gorgeous?
All set up so time for wine and beer plus nibbles
Pre dinner drinks and nibbles keeping it real

Day 8 Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Zugspitze


The drive out of the Black Forest closer to the Alps was stunning as the mountains came into view.

Superb to see the layers of mountains against the lush green foliage
Never get tired of a mountain view
Watching the Zugspitze train go by as we drive to the station in Garmisch-Partenkirchen
We will be on this train later

We had booked to scale the summit of Zugspitze the highest mountain in Germany at 2962m.


This trip can start in a couple of places and we chose to start at the train station in Garmisch-Partenkirchen. You can park at the main train station for 7 euros per 24 hours, be sure to take coins though for the machine. You walk through the tunnel on platform 1 in the main station and on the other side see the Zugspitze station as this was once an olympic village. Your round ticket includes a train journey, a cogwheel train journey and finally the cable cars to the summit. The website is a little confusing so we just followed the other people as it wasn't clear where you got on and off the trains etc. The transport cost 75 euro/person for the day but if you wanted you could drive part way and just pay for the cable car. Today we were glad to not spend the day driving and let others take the reins.

The train is waiting for us to board
Here we go off to Zugspitze
It was so hot Michael appreciated the natural air conditioning of the open windows on the train
All aboard now

The easiest way we found was to start at the main station in Garmisch-Partenkirchen and take the 90 year old cogwheel train to the plateau of Zugspitze. You then take the 1,000m Gletscherbahn cable car to the summit. The views from the plateau are amazing with glaciers, glacial lakes and being able to look out to Austria and Germany. On the plateau is also the Maria Heimsuchung Chapel (Chapel of the Visitation of Mary) the highest church in Germany at 2650m

The snow ploughs are not needed at this time of the year so resting well on the plateau
Show Ploughs all parked up on the Plateau
Stunning mountain views across the Alps up Zugspitze
What mazing views of the Bavarian Alps which traverse Germany Austria and Switzerland
A selfie of us both on the plateua of Mount Zugspitze
The majestic views can actually make you feel very small
Love the greens the greys and the blues of the mountains
Such a clear day to see across multiple mountain ranges
The Chapel of the Visitation of Mary the highest church in Germany
Maria Heimsuchung Chapel

The views from the plateau and the summit were stunning and being able to walk 360 degrees around the summit and see the glaciers was incredible. There are two glaciers one of which has been declassified now as the rate of shrinkage is quicker than the growth from the annual snowfall. These are the last glaciers in Germany and are being lost through climate change. You have a clear view of Lake Eibsee from the top too, another cool place to visit on your way down descending on the world record breaking cable car. The cable car has 3 world records in that it has the highest steel support at 127m, there is an altitude difference of 2km between the mountain and the valley and finally the longest freely suspended section of rope in the world at 3.2km. (Info courtesy of www.Zugspitze.de)


Michael standing on the summit of Zugspitze with Lake Eibsee in the background
Standing on the summit of Zugspitze at 2962m
A perfect view of Lake Eibsee from the top of Zugspitze
The stunning turquoise waters of Lake Eibeee
Looking across the ridge at the top of Zugspitze
The views are crazy from the top of Zugspitze
The wooden sculpture by Mario Gasser against the blue sky
A wooden Sculpture inspired by Mario Gasser
The wooden mountain goat by Mario Gasser at the top of Zugspitze
The Mountain Goat Wooden Sculpture
Mountains as far as you can see.
Looking over to Austria from Germany

At the summit you can look across to 4 countries (Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Italy with over 400 mountain peaks) but you can physically straddle the border between Austria and Germany. Before the formation of the European Union you would need your passport stamping moving from one side to the other also changing your currency from schillings to marks. The lifts from both countries meet at the summit but it was the Austrians who built the first cable car and later in 1931 the Germans built the cog railway to the plateau and subsequently a cable car to the summit. The walk way which connects the two countries used to be the border station and now either side is represented by regional flags rather than national flags.


The Austrian side of the summit was originally higher than the German side until the Germans blew the top off in WWII to make a flak tower to shoot at enemy airplanes. Now the summit is used by both countries for communication purposes either for air traffic control or civil defense back in the cold war years.

A strange feeling just stepping into another country on a mountain summit
Standing in Germany about to cross into Austria
No German flags just the regional sign of Bavaria
and back into Germany
The Snow Beast for clearing the snow in winter
Boys and Toys - such fun

Now one of the challenges at the summit is to climb the last part to the summit cross. This challenge is very popular and involves clambering up the rocks with guide wires to hold on to. It was really tempting to do this but in truth was just one step too far for us. For younger more sure footed guys it was a great achievement. We were happy to look and cheer them on. The cross marks the highest point in Germany and the original one was hauled up to this point by a priest and his friends in 1851. The one you see today is not the original one as this was used for target practice by the Americans in 1940.


Not the original cross taken up the mountain but a symbolic one erected post WWII
Summit Cross

Before descending you can be refreshed in either the Panorama Resturant, the Gletscher 2600 which is completelly vegetarian and vegan or the Sonnalpin Glacier Restaurant. Most of the restaurants close at 4pm though so if you want food you need to choose before this time. You can still order a drink though from the bar. We opted for a local beer and an Aperol Spritz which was a first time experience. To be honest it wasn't my bag I would rather have had the beer but it's one I've chalked up to experience. The colour in the glass though looked amazing against the blue sky!


Aperol Spritz set against the blue sky
What a vision!
Our drinks up the mountain Zugspitze. An Aperol Spritz and local beer
What would you choose - now its beer for us any day
Looking out on the Bavarian Alps, boots together
Togetherness
A primitive snow boot
Snow Boot
A view of the mountain through the railings
Looking beyond the railings
The remaining snow on the summit has been used to build the smallest snow men only 3" high
Cute ickle snowmen
The mountain station up the Zugspitze looks a bit James Bond like
Looking across the mountain station

On the way down from Zugspitze you can take the cable car and stop off at Lake Eibsee a beautiful clear green turquoise lake. This is a very popular spot with tourists and you will find places to paddle/swim and canoe.

You can also walk around the perimeter which is approx 7km, a fairly easy walk for 1.5-2 hours but are not allowed to camp in any form as the lake is privately owned. There is a car park which fills up fairly early and must be empty by 2200 hours or you are fined but in our opinion if you are staying in the region you get a guest pass for the buses which are great and make life a lot easier. It was really hot on the day we were there (>30 C)and so walking around the lake for us was not an option but I would definitely recommed doing this earlier in the day before the midday sun.


The beautiful turquoise and blue waters of Lake Eibsee
Lake Eibsee

This area is very popular and with that comes and expensive price tag for accommodation We booked the Hotel Garni onthe outskirts of town at a cost £112 per night which to be honest was overpriced. The owner was lovely and the views from the breakfast terrace stunning but the rooms are very basic with no tea and coffee and no fans to cool the room which was still 25 degrees at night. From outside the hotel we could see the remains of the ski jump from the 1936 winter olympics and with the sunsetting in the background it looked gorgeous.

The mountains turning orange sets off the 1936 olympic ski jump perfectly
1936 Winter Olympics Ski Slope
The mountain range glowing orange in the setting sun
This almost looks like Uluru!
The orange moves across the mountain range as the sun sets.
A hazy night watching the sun set in Garmisch- Partenkirchen
Visible ski runs without the snow
Ski jumps, Sunsets and Mountains

We did get a good recommendation for dinner though: Ristorante Renzo in the town. A very popular place with amazing food and great service. We had 2 Bruschetta, 2 large Pizzas and 2 drinks for 39 euros.

Tasty vegan bruschetta with olive oil and basil
Bruschetta

Wood fired vegan pizza loaded with vegetables
Wood Fired Vegan Pizza

Day 9 Berchtesgaden and Kehlsteinhaus


This morning started with breakfast in the town at The Berge. This boho chic cafe had great vegan choices and fresh juices.


A great place to start the day with great vegan options, The Berge
The Berge


Michael enjoying free WIFI waiting for breakfast
Breakfast ordered so two happy people


such a refreshing fruit juice of pineapple, oranger ginger and mint
Superb fruit Juice with fresh pineapple, orange, ginger and mint

Avocado, hummus, grilled vegetables and marmalade
Veganes Fruhstuck

Once I added lots of hot water the perfect americano
Good morning coffee

Mismatched chairs make up the interior design of this cafe
Boho chic

Love a window seat
Looking out onto the high street

Even the toilet was quirky
Toilet Decor

Feeling totally refreshed and full we drove to Berchtesgaden a town in the national park in the south east of Bavaria.

An iconic view of the church spire rising up through the mountains in Rosenheim
Rosenheim on our way to Berchtesgaden

We found ourselves a campsite for 2 nights, Campsite Winkl, which was in a great location and we could use our ACSI membership. It was 27 euros/night plus taxes and electricity costing us 72 euros for 2 nights. The facilities were great, very clean and your stay included free access to all local transport. This was a great way of travelling sustainably so we took a short walk to the bus stop and got the bus into town. It amazed us the number of bikes parked and they would still be there later. The views of the surrounding mountains are stunning especially the Watzmann at 2713m the third highest mountain in Germany.


Michael waiting for the bus to go to Berchtesgaden
Our bus stop just outside the campsite
Both of us on the bus to Berchtesgaden and best of all it was free
Great free bus ride
Overlooking the alpine houses you can see Mount Watzmann in the distance its stunning
Mount Watzmann in the distance - Who took a bite out of the summit?

Day 10 Berchtesgarden and Kehlsteinhaus

The original Kehlsteinhaus was built in 1834 and the wooden plaque commemorates this
The original Kehlsteinhaus before it belonged to Hitler

Today was very poignant visiting The Kehlsteinhaus aka The Eagles Nest or Hitlers ‘celebrated tearoom’. This house is perched high on the top of Mount Kehlstein at 1834 metres. We used local free transport to and from the pick up point in Berchtesgaden which made this a sustainable travel day.

Kehlsteinhaus is literally set on the rock of Mount Kehlstein
Kehlsteinhaus 1939

Looming high above Berchtesgaden this house was built for Hitler to celebrate his 50th birthday and to be used for celebrations and dignitary visits.


The construction of the road which cut a swathe through the sheer rockface took 18 months and the men involved were not allowed any respite even during the severe winter weather. As a result 377 men lost their lives making sure it was ready by 1939 and was completed just before Germany invaded Poland. The house was created to impress and is considered an architectural masterpiece with its brass lined lift buried in the heart of the mountain.


You first approach the house at the tunnel entrance, guarded by two huge brass doors, which was intended to keep the entrance secret. Walking through this first fete of engineering 126m long with perfectly formed blocks of marble you then come to the circular entrance hall housing the lift. The lift is made from polished brass, venetian glass and green leather. It rises 131 metres through the centre of the mountain in a heated lift shaft.

Michael stood at the tunnel entrance to the Kehlsteinhaus
The tunnel entrance to Kehlsteinhaus
Karen showing the entrance to the 126m long tunnel
Getting ready to walk the infamous tunnel
The Kehlsteinhaus tunnel lined with marble
Marble lined tunnel 126m long

Hitler didn’t visit here many times only on 14 documented occasions as although he used this place to plan his atrocities he was then worried about enemy air attacks. There are records of him being there with Goebbels and Himmler but also the British Prime Minister Neville Chamberlain. The term Eagles Nest came from the RAF and was the code name used for planned air attacks.

This room next to the dining room and reception hall is no longer used for dining.
The Scharitzstube with beautiful views

The views of the mountain range through the windows is stunning
Picture postcard views from the windows in the Scharitzstube
The marble fireplace in the reception room
The main fireplace in the reception room lined with marble probably donated by Mussolini
Michael stood in the reception room which would have received dignitaries in the war.
The reception room

The house survived the war and a local governor petitioned for it to be kept unlike Hitlers other buildings and in 1960 it was donated back to the town of Berchtesgaden now being run by a Trust raising money for charity.


Hitlers main holiday residence, The Berghof, was close by and was blown up 7 years after he died to prevent it becoming a pilgrimage site for Nazi sympathisers.


The tickets for the visit are 36 euros per person and give you a suggested timed visit of 2 hours. This is purely to manage the buses which depart to and from the Obersalzberg. (You get the 838 from Berchtesgaden Bus station). This is the only way to reach the house as no pedestrians are allowed on the road which is a single track. You have plenty of time to have a leisurely lunch and see the house and exhibition. To return to the bus stop at the tunnel you can either walk and traverse the mountain taking 25 minutes or you can go back down the lift and walk through the tunnel taking about 10 minutes. The buses then return you to Obersalzberg where you get a local bus into town or pick up your car. This is very well organised and there is no stampede trying to get a bus as you are allocated a bus in both directions.

Just one view across the mountain and valley from the summit of Kehlstein
Valley and mountain views surround The Eagles Nest
Mountain peaks and valleys
Another picture postcard
Karen taking a selfie with the mountains in the background
Perfect Selfie
Michael in his usual pose arms outstretched outside the Kehlsteinhaus
Outside the Kehlsteinhaus
We begin the descent down the mountain a 25 minute walk
Traversing the mountain
Michael posing at the end of the mountain path
We made it
A poster showing the route down the mountain
Yes this is where we walked

Whilst in this area you should take a trip to see one or several of Mad Ludwig's Palaces. The most famous of King Ludwig II is his fairytale castle at Neuschwanstein a real 'Disney' style castle. You can tour the castle but suggest you buy your tickets in advance as in summer they sell out fast. This is definitely on our list to do next time.


Neuschwanstein Castle like a Disney Castle
Neuschwanstein Castle

Day 11 Seebruck and Ingolstadt


It was a shame to leave Berchetesgaden National Park as we would happily have spent longer there looking around. We did have to start our homeward journey north over the next 3 days to reach Dunkirk for our ferry home. There is a danger at this point of thinking your tour is over and you could miss out mentally on more wonderful parts of your trip.


Driving to Ingolstadt we drove through the charming town of Seebruck and stopped for coffee and lunch. We could have spent longer here in truth.

Our drive into Seebruck a town dressed up for a celebration
Seebruck Harbour Bridge
Looking out to the mountains over the water and the pier
Overlooking the short pier whilst having our morning coffee
Pouring my morning berry tea from a little cast iron tea pot
Berry Tea so refreshing

It was fab driving through different scenery again having been through the vineyards and then mountains we were now in the hops growing region used famously in german beers. We had never seen the vertical growth of the vine hops before and there were acres upon acres in this region.

Hops vines were everywhere in this region. this was a new one for us
Hops Vines
Huge black rain clouds in the distance and rain visible coming from the clouds
This rainstorm was coming in our direction!

As we drove through Ingolstadt we saw this great art work on one of the apartment blocks. The building had a fatastic appearance of 3D

The artwork on this apartment block looked seriously 3D
3D artwork

.Our stay for the night was in a hotel booked through Booking.com. It was called Roomreich and was an interesting concept. The rooms were very comfortable and clean but very basic. There was again no tea or coffee facilities however when I asked at reception I was given a large flask of hot water to use to make my own coffee. This was perfect.

Reception at the Roomreich Hotel
Roomreich Hotel
Roomreich is a simple hotel conception but set out well with what you need
Roomreich Hotel Reception

There was an inside bar/breakfast room area and outdoor covered seating area so we unpacked and took ourselves outside to put our feet up and enjoy the evening sun. The view was nothing to write home about but we were happy. Inside was the best vending machine ever! It was a full bar and so I paid 4.50 euros for a half bottle of perfectly chilled Chardonnay in a glass bottle which came out of the machine like I'd just chosen a bottle of coke! You then helped yourself to a glass from the cabinet, poured and savoured with a few nibbles 👌.

A vending machine bar at the hotel
The Bar
Help yourself to a glass for any type of drink
Help yourself to a glass
A perfectly chilled glass of chardonnay sitting outside and time to chill
Perfectly chilled now relax

Day 12 Audi Museum and Rothenburg ob der Tauber


Leaving Ingolstadt we took a wrong turn and came upon the immense Audi Headquaters covering 1,000,000m2. It reminded us of the Boots Company Headquarters in Nottingham UK.


It was a Saturday morning so everywhere was very quiet and it was fascinating to see the huge terminal buildings all labelled and the huge numbers of bike parking rows everywhere. It seemed the bikes outnumbered the parking spaces. We then found the Audi Museum which opened in about 15 mins so we parked up as it was too good to miss.

The circular glass building of the Audi Museum
The Audi Museum

It was 5 euros each to enter this ultra modern circular building arranged over 4 floors to match not only the 4 rings of Audi but also the rings of a tree trunk symbolising duration and change.

As the lift changes floors so do the dates on the lift
The lift dates descend as you go up the floors

You start at the top floor and work your way anticlockwise down the building. The history as well as the cars on display was fascinating.


Audi was found by Horch Head of Motor Vehicle Construction at Benz in 1896. He then set up his own company in 1899 to produce cars but after it becoming a share dealing company in 1904 he had a disagreement with the Supervisory Board and in 1909 they parted ways!

The first Horch car is in a display cabinet and is the start of the tour around the museum
The first Horch Car

Horch set up another company initially in his own name but due to the similarities with his first company they made him change the name. Horch means to hear in German we were told and so Horch used the Latin of this which is audire (eg aural, audio) and so Audi was formed!


The museum covered the years of development as can be seen on the lights inside the lift and to see how the famous names developed in the car world was brilliant. There was Benz, Daimler, Diesel, Dunlop. There was also a knitting machine factory which started to produce bikes sold under the name NSU from 1892 and then produced a chassis for the Daimler steel wheeled car in 1889.

One of the first Wanderer bikes which is one of the companies who joined to be the modern day Audi
One of the first Wanderer bikes
One of the first fuel pumps on display
The first fuel pump
One of 4 Grand prix cars on display.
The Auto Union Grand prix Car
The R8 on display
The bottom floor dedicated to the R8

The four rings synonymous with Audi was following the merger of 4 companies namely DKW, AUDI, HORCH, WANDERER

The badges for the four companies who merged to form Audi
The four companies who became Audi


In the afternoon we drove to the picturesque town of Rothenburg ob der Tauber. This town once inspired the Brothers Grim to write their fairytales and you could see why. Strolling through the streets of half wooden medieval houses was magical. It is one of only four towns in Germany with its city walls completely intact. The day we were there there was a 4 day pageant type celebration which meant it was quite busy and we would have preferred a quieter time to really enjoy the buildings and soak up the atmosphere.


The most photographed street in Rothenburg o d Tauber
Das Plonlein

We had lunch in a great cafe called Cafe Lebenslust which had several vegan options. Whilst there were lots of indoor seats we chose to sit in the little courtyard at the rear sheltered from the midday sun but enjoying a chilled glass of Sauvignon. The afternoon was topped off by vegan ice cream sat near the fountain.


Medieval buildings in this colourful town of Rothenburg
Rothenburg o. d. Tauber
The central fountain with water Chanels which can be directed
The central fountain
Rothenburg is full of half timbered buildings
Half wooden buildings
Amazing fountain in the centre of the town
Water channels in the fountain can be moved

The city walls around Rothenburg date to the 12th century. It is well preserved and encircles the old town. You can walk around the walls and towers to see the panoramic views. The wall is approximately 4 Km in length and has 42 towers plus 6 city gates


The city wall completely encircles the old town
Part of the old city wall
We parked just on the other side of the city wall and admired its preservation
Perfect example of intact city walls

This evening we stayed at another freedom camping spot we found on Park4/Night near to Creglingen

As the sun sets the glow in the wheat field was amazing
Wheatfields in the sun
The sun coming through the trees is just stunning
Just can't get enough of this
Our grenadier had its own orange glow during the sunset this evening.
Grenadier glowing nicely

There was only us surrounded by wheat fields, highly scented blossom trees and the buzzing of the bees. The sunset was stunning followed by an equally stunning sunrise and a surprise visit from the local hare.

Morning coffee and toast in just the best setting
Coffee and toast as the sun rises perfect!
As the sun rises in Crelingen we have the start of a beautiful day
Sunrise

This was definitely a day to remember.


Day 13 Liege


We drove back to Belgium and stayed in Esneux near Liege. This day was mainly travelling until we found our parking spot in a wooded area used by the odd campervan and dog walkers.

A great little spot for our overnight stay near Liege
Our wild camping spot for the night
A nice place to chill and watch the dog walkers go by
Beer and nibbles for our penultimate night of the tour
What else do you use the grenadier bumper for other than to rest your morning coffee cups
Grenadier bumpers make the best coffee table

What's great about touring and camping is getting to chat to some great people and knowing we touched each other’s lives for a short time which is what it’s all about.


Alex in his camper van worked in Kenya for 6 years and undertook installations for Heineken but no longer in the UK since Brexit and the red tape needed just to account for the tools! Bridget is a mum of 4 and went to Iceland on a budget. She loved to chat as part of her dog walk and spent equally as long talking to Alex. Our paths crossed such a short time but are part of our memories for this little camping spot 🤗


Day 14 Bruges and Dunkirk


As we left Esneux we drove through Liege and had we had more time we would have stopped to explore this town which had plenty to offer.


Unfortunately we need to be back in Dunkirk this evening as our ferry was first thing in the morning back to the UK.

We decided there was nothing we wanted to see in Dunkirk so we headed again for Bruges to have lunch and to strecth our legs.


We found a great place called Kaffee Kamil. The weather was still a strong 30 degrees but on the menu was a vegan chilli and rice which we couldn't pass up. It was so tasty we were so glad we found this little gem of a place and everything was made with love something we say all the time on our bakery market stall!

Cool beers all round in Belgium
Lunch time
A perfect lunch of vegan chilli sin carne
Chilli Sin Carne even though it is 30C outside

We then had dessert from Otto Waffles as it would be rude not to 😂


The night lights of Dunkirk
The night lights of Dunkirk belie the awful apartment we stayed in

Finding our accommodation for the night in Dunkirk we used Airbnb.com and found an apartment which had good reviews. However, what we got was awful. The apartment block was one of many and it was literally crumbling so much so we could see the rebar where the concrete had fallen off. The building smelt and the apartment was absolutely red hot inside with no way of cooling it down. We literally had to have cold showers and sit in damp towels until the sun set and the room cooled very slightly. We had our own rechargeable fans which were a goddsend over night. Our future tours will not include an overnight stay in Dunkirk that for sure.


Day 15 Dover to Cheshire


As we drove back home we had time to reflect on the highs and lows of our tour. Germany has many beautiful areas and really should be enjoyed in a leisurely way. 14 nights is not enough to travel from the north of England to southern Germany and see everything you want to see.


However, there are highlights we can recommend to you for definite and some to miss out if time is short.


Our highlights include:

Namur Citadel

Allerheiligen Waterfall

Oppenau

Meersburg

Zugspitze

Berchtesgaden

Kehlsteinhaus

Audi Museum

Seebruck

Liege

Bruges


Places we think you can miss:

Bingen

Mainz

Lindau

Dunkirk


We always like to share our costs and facts with you where we can so here goes for 14 nights:

Miles travelled 2379

Steps walked 89,289

Camping 10 nights

Accommodation 4 Nights

Overall Cost £2012


Costs could be reduced in a number of ways if you wanted to do this on a reduced budget for example not staying in paid for accommodation, having meals out or taking the trips up Zugspitze and the Kehlsteinhaus. Overall these things would save you approx 500-600 euros and so the trip fully inclusive of ferry, fuel, food and camping would be an average of 100 euros per day. However, we also think these things made our trip.


So in this blog 'Germany - Unveiling Our True Thoughts and More: Two Weeks of Adventure in Bavaria' we show we had a fantastic look around Germany and wished we had longer as there is so much more to see. We try to share with you the reality of being on the road for a fixed time when you have time commitments elsewhere but if you are not restricted give yourself at least 6 weeks or more to really enjoy all this country has to offer.



Comments


Karen and Michael in a hot air balloon at sunrise in the Napa Valley

About 2 0n Tour Explore

Explore more of our travel adventures on social media @2ontourexplore. Follow us for the latest updates, travel tips, and stunning photos from around the globe.

Join Our Mailing list

© 2025 by 2 0n Tour Explore. All rights reserved.

  • Facebook
  • Instagram
bottom of page