Lang May Yer Lum Reek! - A Journey Through Scotland's East Coast
- karenconnolly59
- Apr 1
- 7 min read
Updated: Jul 2
(Translation: Long may your chimney smoke, meaning have a long and happy life!)
Michael and I retired early at 62. Since then, we've enjoyed creating delicious vegan bakes for our market stall and traveling in our Grenadier 4x4. We began with eager plans to see the world, but we soon discovered that it's better to slow down. Absorbing a place's essence is more rewarding than just pinning it on a map.
We explored a tiny part of Scotland: the Outer Hebrides, the Highlands, and the Cairngorms. We'll share more about those adventures in later posts. This time, we decided to explore the East Coast—from Edinburgh to Inverness, then down through the Southern Cairngorms.
Our journey actually began with a visit to Michael's sister in Saltburn-by-the-Sea, where we took in the refreshing sea air and stunning views. We walked to Marske along the beach, enjoyed lunch in the town, then hiked back alongside the railway track. Afterward, we set off for Scotland with a planned stop at Seaham to search for sea glass treasures on the beach. It was a fascinating experience! Speaking with fellow collectors taught us more about these sought-after gems. Our car was filled to the brim with our bed, camping gear, food, and excitement!
Lang May Yer Lum Reek! - A Journey Through Scotland's East Coast to Discover Those Hidden Gems
The East Coast of Scotland is peppered with hidden gems often overlooked in favor of popular northern and western tourist routes. As we journeyed through the east caost of Scotland we visited a few major cities but preferred to explore places people usually pass through in haste. Join us as we uncover these incredible spots!
Day 1 - Edinburgh Adventures
Our adventure started in Edinburgh. We checked into an AirBnB just outside the city and conveniently used the park and ride. We found it efficient to park for free at Wallyford Journey Hub, then took the train into Waverley Station. The round-trip cost us under £5 per person. While we usually recommend our accommodations, this particular place didn’t meet our expectations.
There's no shortage of attractions in Edinburgh, but for first-time visitors, the castle is a must-see. It’s within walking distance from the station, though it is uphill since it was built on an extinct volcano. You can spend hours exploring! To avoid disappointment, we recommend buying admission tickets online, especially in summer when they sell out quickly. The prices are £17 for seniors and £21.50 for adults. Children under 7 can enter for free, while those over pay £13.
The Scottish Crown Jewels are housed in the castle, and you can enhance your visit with a pre-booked champagne afternoon tea. The castle has a rich history dating back to the Iron Age and features military, prison, and royal connections.
After our castle visit, we took a late lunch at the fully vegan Holy Cow Cafe. The menu had so many tempting options, and we indulged a bit too much—no problem; we took some delicious food with us for later.
After lunch, we walked around the old town before heading back to our AirBnB. One day isn't enough to fully experience Edinburgh, and what you can do largely depends on your stamina. For us, touring the castle and exploring the old town was satisfactory.
Additional Tips for Edinburgh
So much more awaits you in this capital city. Consider visiting the National Museum of Scotland, Palace of Holyrood House, Arthur's Seat, Scott Monument, or take a night tour. Each has its unique charms worth experiencing.
Day 2 - Falkirk and Its Wonders
On day two, we drove north to Falkirk. Who knew there was so much to see here?
Falkirk is home to the only rotating canal boat lift globally, known as the Falkirk Wheel. Built in 2002, this engineering marvel transformed a contaminated former tar works, replaced 11 locks, and ascends 100 feet. While the entry fee is £17.70 to ride in a barge being lifted by the wheel, you can observe the wheel and explore the area for free. Don’t forget to check the cafe in the visitor center!
For those traveling with motorhomes, an option exists to stay overnight in the upper car park. An overnight charge of £18 includes a light show on the wheel.
The Falkirk Wheel leads to the Roman Antonine Wall, where you can explore the site of the ancient Fortress or Rough Castle. A mile's walk guides you through the longest surviving stretch of the Antonine Wall, surrounded by defense pits and a military signal station. Roman Emperor Antonius Pius commissioned this wall’s construction in AD142. We learned he was the adopted son of Emperor Hadrian, who has the 'other' older wall named after him.
Roman legionaries first marched to present-day Scotland around AD71, trying for 140 years to conquer the northern British tribes. Despite winning battles and establishing fortresses, local resistance persisted. By AD212, Romans abandoned their efforts. The wall extended 37 miles across Scotland, controlling movement along the northern border of their empire.
A highlight of this day was visiting The Kelpies, stunning 30-meter-high sculptures representing working horses. The only charge is for car parking, while a cafe on-site serves food. You must see the Kelpies lit up at night; they're spectacular!
After our full day of exploration, we searched for a quiet camping spot for the night. Many campervan apps are available, and we used Park4night, paying an annual subscription of £10. This app shows both paid and free camping options across the UK and Europe. We eventually freedom camped at Heatherhall Woods, enjoying peaceful surroundings and breathtaking morning sunrises.
Day 3 - Exploring St Andrews
Day three took us to St Andrews, famous for its university, historic golf courses, and its ruined cathedral. This city has a rich history worth exploring. The original church, built in 1158, served as the center of the medieval Catholic Church—the largest in Scotland. Against the blue skies, its remaining structures are majestic, and while some parts of the graveyard are closed for safety, you can sense the rich history everywhere.
The university dominates the city with numerous colleges and historic buildings. We also discovered St Leonards School, established in 1877 for girls and now a fee-paying co-ed school. It’s hard not to envy its fortunate students!
Parking by the harbor is free—though limited space. Dining options in St Andrews are abundant, with many cafes and restaurants available. For a vegan lunch, we enjoyed familiar dining at Forgan's. Finding the entrance can be tricky since it’s small and easily missed, but once through, the space opens into a delightful restaurant. The decor is industrial, featuring private booths for larger parties. Our meal (all vegan) was delicious and reasonably priced at around £45 for a starter, two mains, and two drinks.
Day 4 - Coastal Camping in Stonehaven
From St Andrews, we ventured to Stonehaven to camp alongside the beach. However, upon arrival, we found the campsite closed. After searching nearby for alternatives, we settled in at a local hotel called Number 44—grateful to have a warm place to stay.
With reservations through Booking.com, we secured a room for £95, including a full vegan Scottish breakfast.
The following morning, we strolled along Stonehaven beach before traveling to Aberdeen. Having visited several times due to our daughter attending university there, we chose to skip the city tour this time. However, if you haven't visited, we highly recommend soaking in the rich tradition and ambiance.
Aberdeen Highlights
We focused on the coast, visiting the sculptures 'Windows to the Sea' and searching the beach for sea glass treasures.
Day 5 - Discovering Rosehearty and Down on the Farm
With no fixed camping plans, we set our sights on Rosehearty as our next destination. There, we discovered Down On The Farm, a unique spot offering an Aire for motorhomes and campervans.
We met Carole, the owner, who generously allowed us to pitch our tent for two nights. The warm welcome we received made it feel like home.
We explored Pennan, a quaint fishing village now primarily a holiday destination. This picturesque village is known for its stunning coastline, markedly affected by storms. Those storms have influenced how residents built their homes, maintaining a gable end facing outward to sea—like the bow of a boat.
Day 6 - Walking in Crovie
Crovie, another charming village along the Moray Firth coastline, is entirely pedestrianized. Here, residents must carry their groceries uphill in wheelbarrows. We relished walking along the beach path from nearby Gardenstown to Crovie, learning about the village’s fishing history.
Day 7 - Portknockie and Cullen
On day seven, our adventures took us to Portknockie, where we marveled at the stunning rock formation called Bow Fiddle Rock. The vibrant colors and breathtaking views made it impossible not to snap numerous photos.
Afterward, we strolled to Cullen, known for its picturesque scenery and the charming Royal Oak Hotel, where we paused to enjoy our lunch.
Day 8 - A Day at Loch Kinord
Our second last day found us in the scenic beauty of Loch Kinord and Burn O'Vat. We took a 5-mile circular walk that led to breathtaking natural wonders, with plenty of opportunities for wildlife sighting.
Day 9 - A Farewell to Moffat
Finally, we decided to explore Moffat on our last day, a town with rich history—including the graves of John McAdam and postmen James McGeorge and John Goodfellow.
This charming town has a sculpture of a ram, recognizing its wool trade, along with the narrowest hotel in the world—The Star Hotel.
Conclusion
We hope you enjoyed our Lang May Yer Lum Reek! - A Journey Through Scotland's East Coast exploring hidden gems together. Scotland’s east coast offers plenty for any traveler—whether in a car or campervan. We expressed our gratitude for the warm Scottish hospitality, rich history, and stunning vistas.
As a mature—as well as young at heart—couple, we explored nature and enjoyed an unforgettable trip. We encourage you to consider this region, almost as if it deserves more recognition than the more famed NC 500 or Outer Hebrides.
If you have 1-2 weeks free, this could be your next travel destination, and you won't regret it!
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