Trekking to See the Gorillas: Is it worth it?
- karenconnolly59
- Oct 22
- 19 min read
Many people have Gorilla Trekking on their bucket list. Many are fortunate to do this and many will wonder if it is worth saving for such an adventure and if they will be physically able to do it.
In this blog we want to share with you our recent adventure, how we planned it, how much it cost and how arduous or not we found the trek.
First of all let us introduce ourselves. We are Karen and Michael a retired couple in our mid 60's (Karen) and 70 years old (Michael had his big birthday at the start of this trip) and we have just returned from this incredible experience. Whilst we are both active and like walking we are not extreme hikers and Michael has a dodgy knee. That is just to give you a sense of what is doable. (It really is doable 👏).
The logical way to set out this blog would be to start at the begining with the planning and itinery plus any tips we can give you. However, we would much rather whet your appetite and if you think it is something for you then go for it and read the rest which will go into the detail.
Where are the Gorillas?
You can trek to see the Gorillas in their natural habitat in the wild in either Rwanda or Uganda. We chose Rwanda as we were following a recommendation.
The Rwanda mountain gorillas live in the dense, high altitude rainforests of the Virunga Mountains. This is within the Volcanoes National Park. The range of mountains you see crosses Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. The guided treks are a safe and accessible way to see the gorillas in the wild and are organised by the Rwandan Government and conservation groups.
These primates are spread across much of the equatorial rainforest but the mountain gorillas are the most endangered and these are the ones you trek to see knowing that the cost you pay is helping them to slowly increase as they are no longer poached. There are only approximately 604 gorillas in the Virunga Mountain range with 12 families living in the Volcanoes National Park. Each troop consists of at least one silverback with several females and youngsters. They tend to move around within a preferred area making it possible for the rangers to track them and for visitors to see them close up.
You can only access this area with a guided tour and a permit. Only 96 permits per day are issued and no more than 8 are issued to see one troop for an hour only per day. This means you remain fairly unobtrusive and do not pose a threat to these amazing mammals.
Each family of gorillas is given a name and ours was called Hirwa. There was a Silverback Chief, a female and her baby, two adolescent twin silverbacks and two toddlers.
The cost of the permit is arguably the most expensive part of this trip but 10% goes to the local community to build schools and health centres and money is kept in a fund to compensate the famers in the event the gorillas wander into their crops and cause any damage. This way both can live in harmony.
The treks also provide employment for many of the locals in either the hospitality service, the guides, porters and trackers or those who produce crafts for the tourists.
Our Itinerary
Day 1: 9am Pick up by our driver from the BnB in Kigali
Drive to the market in Kigali
Drive to the Genocide Memorial Museum and spend a couple of hours
Lunch
Drive to our lodge in Kinigi in the Volcanoes National Park
Evening Meal
Day 2: 6am Breakfast
7am Pickup and meet at the Gorilla Trekking Centre and begin the trek
1pm Lunch at our Lodge
Afternoon to ourselves
Evening Meal
Day 3: 6am Breakfast
7am Trek to see the Golden Monkeys
1pm Lunch at the Lodge
3pm Depart to Kigali
6pm Check in to BnB
Day 4: Depart for Kigali Airport
The Best Bits!
Okay now its time to share with you the details of our amazing trek to see the gorillas and the golden monkeys
Gorilla Trek to see Hirwa
Our day started at 6am with breafast in the Lodge and getting ready to trek through the rainforest. We had dressed for a chilly morning with the possibility of needing to shed layers as the day warmed up and we climbed at altitude. We both wore long trousers and gaiters together with hiking boots.
Our driver picked us up at 7am and took us to the Volcanoes National Park Headquaters to be checked in needing our ID to confirm we had the relevant permits. Here you gather together with your fellow 96 trekkers before you meet your guide who briefs you on the morning plans.
Our driver then took us to the trek start point at which point he left us and we were in the capable hands of our guide and two porters. Our porters were called David and Norway and they would carry our backpack and water. At first this felt uncomfortable as I can carry my own backpack but it was expected and they also helped you to navigate the terrain which was challenging at times. Each person was given a carved wooden walking pole which was a godsend for keeping you upright both climbing up and down the mountain.
You are allocated to your group based on ability and preference as your hike can be anywhere from around 2 -4 hours one way climbing to altitudes of 2,500m upwards. This altitude affected most trekkers in our group so plenty of water, snacks, and mini rests were needed. This is a physically demanding trek but the guide is thoughtful and the porters are worth their weight in gold.
You first start to climb through the fields where the potatoes are grown. These are simply called 'Irish' which distinguishes them from sweet potatoes. You see the crops being tended to by women and men often with their children playing alongside. These fields yield tons of potatoes and can be seen being transported down the mountainside on bikes in sacks or in baskets.
The terrain then starts to change until you are deep into the rainforest where the undergrowth is hacked to one side with a machette where needed. You also get your first glimpse of one of the trackers carrying what they call a buffalo banjo 😂 (an Ak47 rifle ). Within the forest there are other wild animals who are less used to sharing the space with humans so these rifles are not for killing but for scaring them off if needed.
Cally our guide was in contact with the trackers and how on earth they could find our gorilla family and guide us to them I have no idea as it wasn't as if you could see any recognisable land marks and say turn left at the next tree 😂.
The moment the Hirwa family (Troop) came in to view it was truely emotional. We had been educated to not stand in their way and to let them pass and within minutes we had one of the females and her baby brush past us literally gracing our trouser leg. We then watched her grooming this tiny baby and kissing it like a human would do the same.
Our family Hirwa (this means Lucky) comprised of the Chief Silverback, the mother and her baby, two toddlers and two twin silverback adolescents. We felt truely lucky as the whole family soon came before us.
The chief silverback was so cool and laid back. He stretched out in the sun not a care in the world, and boy when he went on the move you could see his strength and majestic moves.
The twins were already big boys and starting to become silver backed. We understood it was lucky to have both twins survive.
The toddlers were definitely playful following the others around especially the twins and even played rolypoly down the hill infront of us. They were so human like you felt like you understood them and the respect was mutual. It was at this time you fully understood why people devoted their lives to these primates and we will never understand why anyone could have ever caused them harm.
After an hour your time with these beautiful creatures is over and you begin your descent down the mountain. An hour feels like forever when you are at one with the gorillas as you don't have any sense of time and certainly don't feel rushed. Everyone in the group can take as many photos as they want to, you remain quiet and observant and you move slowly with your family as they move.
It is stunning, emotional and awe inspiring.
Golden Monkey Trek
Trekking to see the Golden Monkeys is less arduous than the gorillas as you don't have to trek deep into the rainforest to see them. Some would say this is less exciting than the gorillas and we would agree but to see them in their natural habitat is still amazing. This trek is still with a guide and porters with no more than 8 in your group. The price of your trip includes the permits to see the golden monkeys and you cannot see them without this.
It was so cool seeing a mother with her young and went she went off to look for food this tiny Golden Monkey was looked after by its siblings.
This little one was making its way across the forest following some of the tiny monkeys who were adventurous and got themselves high up in the trees.
These two monkeys were fascinating to watch as they moved together and got themselves into a good position to start grooming each other. It took literally ages as the first one started at the top around the face ad head working its way down the body of the other. The one being groomed turned on his back showing its abdomen then stuck its bottom in the air for its rear end to be cleaned. This was a meticulous process!
Ok these two were undertaing death defying leaps into the unknown 😂. To see them hanging on to the thinnest branches, get themselves positioned and then leaping into who knows where was both funny and breath catching. Sure enough they found a soft landing and sat in the shrubbery as if nothing had happened 🤣🤣🤣
Our time with the Golden Monkeys was at an end and we began the trek back to the base. Our trackers did a great job for us and we saw beautiful creatures again in their own habitat thriving and surviving.
Kigali and The Local Market
Kigali was a bustling city and at times manic with cars and bikes everwhere. We didn't venture into the city much other than driving through but we did visit a local market.
The market was mixed food and crafts and what an amazing array of fresh fruit, vegetables and dried goods. The colours were amazing and the food piled high with lots of choice.
As we progressed through the market it changed to local crafts, clothes and shoes. The crafts are often made locally by the women and some were aimed at the tourists with no visible prices and bartering expected. A note of caution is that these items are not particularly cheap as it is expected tourists arrive with money so the dollar is king. Some drivers will help you to barter and whilst ours didn't we managed to negotiate for two fold up bags that still cost us more than we would have paid in the UK. Our rationale was we were supporting the local community and some of our fellow guests paid even more for their items.
The market then changed into stalls for DIY and OMG there was every tool you could wish for. I think I would have lost Michael here all day if we were not on a timescale.😂
The Genocide Memorial Museum
Visiting the Genocide Memorial Museum was important and very sobering. It was good we visited here at the start of our trip as the memories of what was shared would stay with you even after your trip and it was good to have light and shade. We wanted to share with you the history of Rwanda here as it helps to explain what happened but you can skip this part if it's not your thing.
Rwanda did not choose to be colonised. The Germans arrived first (1895-1916) then during World War One, the country was occupied by Belgian troops, who in 1923 were granted a mandate by the League of Nations to govern Rwanda-Urundi, which it ruled indirectly. They turned their mandate into a colonial occupation until Rwanda gained independence in 1962.
There were some benefits to their presence here. Christianity was integrated into society, schooling and medicine developed, as did the infrastructure. Useful export markets for their produce also opened up.
However, they did not share good times together. Initially, the Rwandans did try to resist the influence of colonialism, fighting the Germans first in 1875. But the colonial powers were stronger and their influence greater
The primary identity of all Rwandans was originally associated with eighteen different clans. The categories Hutu, Tutsi and Twa were socio-economic classifications within the clans, which could change with personal circumstances. Under colonial rule, the distinctions were made racial, particularly with the introduction of the identity card in 1932. In creating these distinctions, the colonial power identified anyone with ten cows in 1932 as a Tutsi and anyone with less than ten cows as Hutu, and this also applied to his descendants.
The Catholic Church influenced education in Rwanda. Teaching increasingly conveyed the racist ‘Hamitic’ ideology, largely accepted by the Church. Hamitic ideology portrayed the Tutsis as a superior group.
Over 1,000,000 Tutsi’s were slaughtered regardless of age or gender when it was subsequently deemed the Hutus were superior . They were cut with machetes beaten or shot. Neighbours and friends turned on each other and many people were left orphaned. They weren’t even protected by the church as some religious leaders led people to their slaughter. This all happened in 1994 so not that long ago.
The museum enabled survivors to tell their story, it had a garden for reflection and remembrance and large unmarked graves for those who lost their lives. As you walked through the displays you are reminded that these atrocities have occurred in recent times in many countries across the world and it is still happening today.
Our Accommodation
Leaving Kigali we then began our drive to the Volcanoes National Park. This was a 2-3 hour drive up into the mountains and through the farms and villages. We saw many locals making their way along the roadside carrying enormous loads either on bicylces, motorbikes or in baskets on their heads. The roads were shared by vehicles, pedestrians and livestock and it seemed in the main to work with most avoiding collision. The main form of accident we did see where huge trucks tipped over mainly in the bends of the mountain roads.
Arriving at our lodge called Ingagi Park View Lodge we were greeted by very welcoming staff. It was late afternoon and the temperature was begining to cool. We soon realised their was no central heating anywhere in the hotel and our room was warmed by a log burning fire and hot water bottles placed at night in your bed. Even in the dinning room and lounge area heat was from coal burning grates moved around to near where you were sitting.
All meals were included in the price of your stay with the menu changing daily. The chef prepared us vegan meals each day all of which were tasty and we didn't miss out either on snacks and hot drinks as alternative milks were available.
The hotel had a small gift shop again with items made mainly by the local women. We purchased two hand carved walking poles as a memory of our time here.
Saying good bye came around all too quickly and as we waved the whole team of staff came out to wave us off.
Now for the details how to plan...
Trekking to see the Gorillas how do you plan such an incredible adventure?
Planning any trip usually involves a degree of research either speaking to friends who have done this before (we did), trawling through the internet or watching YouTube videos. We did it all! Before we get into the details of the trip this is the planning we would recommend.
1. Get a recommendation
Our main reassurance came from our friends as when someone you know has walked the path before you and can recommend it you have a fair level of confidence you are in the right ball park. We spoke to fellow travellers from across the world and the one thing they mentioned was having to pay out large sums of money to unknown companies and hope it was getting to the right place. When you arrive to start your trek you can see there are a number of different companies operating so working your way through these is a bit of a chore and seeing if they involve the same itinery/cost is like doing a 1,000 piece jigsaw puzzle. In the end we went with a friend's recommendation.
2. Get a quote
If you look on the internet for a trip they often don't include the price upfront. (Some do but not all) so get more than one quote to compare and see what is actually included as there are variations. We will share what was included for us further down this post and things to look out for.
3. Consider the best time of the year to go
We chose to go in the dry season (August) as the rainy season would probably have made trekking through the rainforest too difficult for us and we also wanted the best pictures.
4. Consider when your flights arrive.
We would suggest if you are planning a self organised trip make sure your flights arrive the day before as you need some room incase there are any delays. Your trek to the Gorillas is on a specified day and your permit is only valid for that day so there really isn't much flexibility.
4. Which country to base your trek
The two main areas for Gorilla trekking are Rwanda or Uganda. We went to Rwanda so can only speak from our experience however, we do think the content of the trips are very similar. We were told the trip to Uganda costs less but we dont have the cost differences to confirm this.
5. What are your onward plans
Where you plan to go after your trekking experience will affect your stay in either Rwanda or Uganda. We wanted to maximise our time in Africa so planned an onward trip to South Africa where as we know some fellow travellers were going to Europe and others home. The timing of your onward flights will dictate you staying over in either Rwanda or Uganda for the night before. We knew our driver would drop us off at our accommodation and we would get a taxi to the airport the next morning.
Visa
Travelling from the UK a visa is required to visit Rwanda for up to 30 days. As a member of the Commonwealth your visa is granted at the airport in Kigali free of charge. For further information check out the Rwanda Immigration website www.migration.gov.rw as this will give you the most up to date information. For other countries where a visa is required then there are online sites available. In all cases you must have a valid passport with more than 6 months before it expires.
For Uganda you also need a visa and this can be applied for online rather than being granted at the airport. You will get a letter of approval emailed with a barcode which you need to print out and show at immigration. If you are travelling to more than one East African country you can apply for a 90 day visa online which covers you for Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. We must stress that check out your own Government websites for information as it can change at short notice.
Immunisation
Immunisation will depend upon your country of origin and which countries you may have visited before arriving in Rwanda. However, in Uganda you must have the Yellow Fever Vaccine and take with you a certificate of proof. Again your government website will provide the most up to date information. We didn't need any vaccinations for Rwanda and it was not mosquito season so we were good to go.
Flights
Flights are a personal choice depending on how you prefer to travel and if you have any specific requirements. We flew out with Turkish Airlines and returned with Ethiopian Airlines. Your flights take you to Kigali and from here you need to find accommodation for a night.
After our trip to see the gorillas we flew from Kigali to Johannesburg then to Hoedspruit in South Africa before flying on to Cape Town and back home. Both Airlines were perfectly comfortable and both had the vegan meals we ordered.
Accommodation
Our first night in Kigali we needed a room for about 6 hours only as we were arriving at Kigali airport at 2am and being picked up later that morning at 9am. Now here you have a few of choices.
Book a hotel that includes airport transfers and make sure they have a nighttime check in facility
Book a BnB and get them to arrange pickup from the airport
Book a BnB and get a taxi from the airport.
Landing in an unkown airport can sometimes make you feel vulnerable and so if there is a designated pickup especially at 2am you will feel safer and less vulnerable. At Kigali airport there are lots of taxis and all cost $35 regardless of where you are going. This may seem reasonable but when I asked the owner of the BnB to book us a pick up she was charging $20 (this didn't happen as it got lost in translation at the booking) and when she arranged for us to go back to the airport as we stayed there on our return journey for a night we shared the taxi and she charged $15 which was $8 for us!
As we were at the airport at 2am with no transport we spotted a couple of guys also not prepared to pay $35 so we shared with them and paid $15 as they were going further than us!
Now our BnB booked through Booking.com was £21 per night including breakfast for two of us! The hostess Leonie was so lovely and so accommodating which made up for some of the lack of maintenance in our room. Our room was clean and breakfast was plentiful for non-vegans (a little less for us but that was ok) so the lack of hot water and broken plugs didn't matter for the 6 hours we were there. We stayed at Ikaze Bed and Breakfast in Kigali. There are larger hotels in the city to choose from too.
Safety
We would always recommend looking at the Government website for your country and consider if where you are going would invalidate your insurance or put you in danger. The advice for Rwanda at the time of our travel was to stay away from the border of the Democratic Republic of Congo. The rainforest we were travelling to was on the west side of Rwanda towards the DRC border and so we asked the company if we would be travelling into the red-no go area. Fortunately we were not so all was good. Other safety advice is common sense in that you are advised not to flaunt your wealth ie dont wear expensive jewellery/watches and take care with personal belongings. Rwanda is considered to be a fairly safe country but in truth many people do not own a lot of possessions so it is about being thoughtful and respectful to where you are going.
The Environment
Rwanda has banned single use plastics and so do not arrive at the airport with any as they are illegal. Rwanda is considered to be the cleanest country in Africa and on the last Saturday of every month from 8am to 11am Umuganda takes place. This is where citizens work together on public and community projects to achieve a common goal. This fosters a culture of self reliance and community solutions. Cleanliness is a part of this.
What's included in your trip?
We booked through the Office of Primate Safaris and chose a 3 day trip. You can take longer trips but for us this was enough to see the main attraction i.e. the Gorillas.
Included in the price of our trip was:
Pick up and drop off from the airport or BnB on day 1 and 3
All meals
Accommodation
Transport to the trekking sites
The Conservation Permit for the Gorillas and the Golden Monkeys
The cost of the guides and porters
1 day trekking to the Gorillas
1/2 day trekking to the Golden Monkeys
Visit to the Genocide Museum
Visit to the local market in Kigali
What wasn't included was:
Any drinks from the bar in the lodge
Tips for the guides and porters
Hire of Gaiters for the Trek
Any personal expenses eg gifts and souvenirs
Tips for your trip
What to wear
Trekking through the fields, rainforest and ascending elevations means there are somethings you should consider.
Wear layers as your trek starts around 7am and it can be pretty chilly but as the morning continues and your hike increases in elevation it gets warmer and you may want to shed layers.
long trousers are essential as you will be travelling through areas where the undergrowth can sting or is spikey and would shred your legs
strong, waterproof walking boots or shoes are needed as you are climbing over uneven ground which is often wet and so you need to have shoes/boots which grip
gardening gloves are an option for moving vegetation aside when in the rainforest
gaiters are recommended mainly to stop ants climbing and getting inside your boots. We hired these for $5 from the Lodge and we did see ants which were huge!
Tips for the Guides and Porters
Nobody advised us about the tips you may want to give and it can feel a bit embarassing if others are tipping and you dont know what to do. Some companies will include the tips in your holiday price and give you envelopes to give out at the end of the trek. If this is not in your cost then we would advise you give $10 to your guide. $10 to the trackers and $10 to your porter. These are not compulsory but you do feel it is the right thing to do.
Currency
We were not able to buy Rwandan Francs in the Uk and to be honest they are not needed as US dollars are perfectly acceptable and often preferred. Cash is needed for local purchases
Bartering
The tourists are in our experience seen as a cash cow by the local people and they will definitely increase their prices for you. We bought a couple of craft items in the local market and these prices were more than in the UK. However, we did negotiate the price and felt like we were contibuting to the small businesses and local community. Some tourists had their guide barter for them but we managed on our own looking to pay a fair price.
Driver.
Your driver is usually allocated for the length of your trip and is available for you to take you to places in addition to what is on your itinerary if you ask him. We didnt know this until others told us this is what they had done.
Local Crafts
Local crafts are often made by the women in the community and are not imported from places like China. This was important to us as we felt this was one way we could support local community groups and women in particular.
Trekking to See the Gorillas: Is it worth it? Here is our Cost Breakdown
Ok so working out if trekking to see the gorillas is worth it it will depend on your disposable income to start with and how you prioritise your experiences. We think this is not inexpensive and the prices have increased significantly since our friends did this trip 12 months earlier. We will not include flight prices here as these vary widely depending on the airline, country of origin and departure city. This breakdown is for 4 days in Rwanda
If you found this useful as a guide please like our post and feel free to share with others. You can also see videos of our African trip on our instagram page @2ontourexplore
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